Travels with Chase and Bud: At last...the Maasai Mara, lions, cheetah and a remote camp.

As amazing as our time had been so far, we had not seen simba (lions) or duma (cheetah) yet. But the staff at Meru and Sosian kept saying "hakuna matata"--no worries, you are headed to the Maasai Mara. Lion and cheetah country!

Our SafariLink flight stopped in Nanyuki, then headed southwest over some mountains. After about 45 minutes, the terrain flattened out to a vast, vast plain. The Mara, meaning "spotted land". The grasslands stretch forever, and are dotted with the occasional acacia tree...spots. Maasai is of course the predominate tribe that inhabits the Mara.

This time we weren't surprised to see a packed dirt runway with no buildings...just some safari vehicles waiting for pickups/dropoffs and some armed park rangers representing the Maasai National Reserve. Our Maasai guides Kimoni and Josephat (Josh) met us, then had a lengthy discussion with the rangers about our park permits.

Once it was sorted out we headed over the grasslands to Offbeat Mara Camp...but didn't get far before Kimoni spotted a group of lions, males and females. They were trying to cool off in the heat of the day and were battling hordes of flies. We drove right up to within 4 or 5 feet of them!

Josh said this female lion was looking for some action...but the male seemed to think it was too damn hot. He was not interested. They ambled away.

These two fellows were right in front of us. They were annoyed by the flies...a fact of life in the noonday heat of the Mara. There was another female behind them and after a few moments, they got up and decided to look for shade...luckily not under out vehicle. Lions sometimes crawl under vehicles, and when that happens, you just stay put until they decide to move--could be hours.

We had the viewing all to ourselves, but decided it was time to get to camp...and lunch. On the way we saw the first of many vultures--a bird we had not seen at all at Meru or Sosian.

We also saw some "new" antelope...including this topi. The topi seemed to be painted with muted watercolors, purples, ambers and browns.

The Thompson's gazelles have a thick black racing stripe along their bellies.

We got checked in at the camp, definitely the most remote and camp-like of the Offbeat group.

We asked that the canvas sides be kept up all night--normally they are let down. We didn't want to miss a thing! The table and chairs on the "verandah" is where our coffee and biscuits are delivered at 5:30 am--prep for the morning game drive which starts at 6. You gotta adjust to the animals' schedule--they certainly don't care about letting you sleep in!

Lunch with our camp-mates Jenny and Neil (another UK couple)was yummy and after unpacking we headed out for an evening game drive--of course with sundowners set up by camp manager Miia. Vodka & tonic for me, gin & tonic for Bud...and a lovely fire to keep up warm.